How to Install BMW F90 & G30 CSL Yellow DRL Headlights

If you’ve ever seen an M5 CS at night, you know the look. The yellow glow from its daytime running lights is subtle but aggressive. A lot of F90 M5 and G30 5 Series owners want that same motorsport feel, and now you can get it without replacing your whole headlight unit.

The CSL yellow DRL upgrade swaps your factory white LED boards for selective yellow ones. It’s plug-and-play, no coding, no warnings, and fits any 2017–2020 BMW F90 M5 or G30 5 Series with LED headlights.

This guide walks you through how to install them at home. It’s written for DIYers, if you can pull a bumper and turn a wrench, you can handle this.

What Are CSL Yellow DRLs and Why Upgrade?

CSL stands for Coupe Sport Lightweight. On the M4 CSL and M5 CS, BMW fitted special headlights with yellow daytime running lights. They don’t just look cool, yellow light cuts glare in fog and rain, and has a rich, retro racing vibe.

Installing F90 M5 CSL yellow headlights gives your car that factory motorsport look. It’s not a cheap tint film or a coding trick. You’re swapping the actual LED modules.

Compared to white DRLs:

• Yellow light is softer and stands out better in poor weather.

• It matches the M5 CS and GT3 race car look.

• It adds contrast if you’ve done other blacked-out or CSL-style mods.
  
  

BayOptiks, who makes the kit, says it’s “easy to install from your own garage.” That’s true, but you’ll need some patience and the right tools.

Tools and Parts You’ll Need

You don’t need a workshop. Just a few basic tools:

• Floor jack and jack stands

• Wheel chocks

• 17mm socket and breaker bar (for wheels)

• 8mm and 10mm sockets (for liners and bumper)

• T20 and T10 Torx bits (for DRL modules)

• Trim removal tools or a flat screwdriver

• Gloves and eye protection
  
  

And, of course, the BayOptiks F90 M5 / G30 CSL Yellow DRL Kit.
You can find it here on BayOptiks.

The kit includes:

• Two new LED boards (one per headlight)

• Thermal adhesive paste

• Instructions
  
  

No wiring, coding, or error cancelers needed.

Before You Start

Park on flat ground. Turn off the car and let the headlights cool, they get hot.
Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.

Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the car’s still on the ground. Then jack up the front end, support it with stands, and remove the wheels.

You’ll be taking off the front bumper, so give yourself space. A clean towel on the floor helps protect the bumper once it’s off.

Step 1: Removing the Front Bumper

This is the longest part. Don’t rush it.

1. Start with the wheel liners.
   Remove the screws and push-clips that hold the fender liners. There are a few 8mm bolts and plastic clips on each side. Peel the liner back to see the inner bumper tabs.

2. Under the bumper.
   There are several 8mm bolts along the bottom edge, plus a few clips behind the splash guard. Take them all out.

3. Along the top.
   Pop the hood. You’ll see several clips along the top edge of the bumper, right under the grille. Pry them up carefully using trim tools.

4. Side brackets.
   Inside each wheel well, there’s a 10mm bolt connecting the bumper to the fender. Take those out.
   
   

Once everything’s free, pull the bumper straight forward. It should release with a firm tug. Get a friend to help you carry it off, it’s light but awkward.

Set it on your towel or blanket, face-down.

If you want to double-check your fastener layout, see the BMW F90 M5 Front Bumper Removal – DIY Guide on M5Board.

Step 2: Removing the Headlights

With the bumper off, the headlights are easy to reach.

1. Unplug the main headlight connector. It’s a large multi-pin plug on the back of the housing. Push the tab, then pull straight back.

2. Remove the bolts holding the headlight in place, usually 10mm or Torx.

3. Slide the headlight forward carefully.
   
   

Set each headlight lens-down on a soft towel. Don’t scratch the front.

Step 3: Access the DRL Modules

On the bottom of each headlight, you’ll see two finned metal pieces. Those are the DRL boards.

1. Find the connector on each board. Press the clip and unplug it.

2. Use a T20 Torx bit to remove the two screws holding the board.

3. Pull the board off.
   
   

You’ll have one inner and one outer DRL module per headlight.

If you see a smaller screw in the center, that’s a T10, remove it too. Keep all screws; you’ll reuse them.

Step 4: Remove the Factory DRL Boards

Once the screws are out, pull the factory DRL board away from the housing.

You might notice a thin thermal pad on the back, peel that off carefully. Clean off any leftover paste with a dry cloth.

This is where your new CSL yellow boards will sit.

Step 5: Install the New CSL Yellow DRL Modules

Here’s the fun part.

1. Apply a small amount of thermal paste to the back of the new board. This helps with heat transfer.

2. Slide the new yellow DRL board into place. The screw holes and plug should line up exactly with the old one.

3. Plug in the connector.

4. Use the original screws to secure the board. Tighten snugly but don’t overtighten.
   
   

Repeat for the second DRL board on that headlight, then move to the other headlight.

BayOptiks says you should “slide the new module into place, plug in the connector, and secure it with the original screws.” That’s exactly what you’ll do.

Double-check that the yellow LED face is pointing outward through the lens.

Step 6: Reinstall Everything

Once both headlights are upgraded, put everything back together in reverse order.

1. Slide each headlight back into place and bolt it down.

2. Reconnect all wiring plugs.

3. Reinstall the bumper, start by aligning the top clips under the hood. Then secure the sides and bottom bolts.

4. Put your fender liners back in.

5. Reinstall your wheels and tighten lug nuts to spec (about 140 Nm).

6. Lower the car and remove the jack stands.

Step 7: Testing and Final Checks

Turn on the ignition and let the DRLs come on.

You should see two bright yellow rings on each headlight. If one side doesn’t light up, check the plug or connector seating.

No coding, no warnings, everything should work like stock.

Walk around the car and make sure the bumper fits flush, and that both headlights are aligned.

If your lights look uneven, you can adjust headlight height using the white adjustment screws on top of the housing.

Common Issues and Fixes

One DRL doesn’t turn on:
Check the plug connection first. Then swap the board to the other side, if the problem moves, it’s a bad board. If it stays, it’s wiring.

You get a warning light:
Make sure the connectors are fully seated. These are error-free modules, so you shouldn’t see any faults.

Yellow is dim or uneven:
You may have skipped the thermal paste or applied too much. Remove the board, clean, and reapply a thin layer.

Wrong fit:
These only fit pre-LCI (2017–2020) LED headlights. They won’t fit the 2021+ laser light housings.

Safety and Legal Notes

Yellow DRLs are road-legal in most U.S. states and many other countries. Still, check your local laws, some regions restrict non-white front lighting.

If you track your car, yellow DRLs are often allowed and even preferred for visibility.

When working under the car or removing the bumper, always support the vehicle with jack stands, never a jack alone.

Disconnect the battery if you’re nervous about working near live connectors.

Real Owner Tips

A few owners on BimmerPost and M5Board shared their experiences:

• “Removing the bumper was easier than I expected. The hardest part was the wheel liners.”

• “Thermal paste is key, don’t skip it. My first install had uneven brightness until I reapplied it.”

• “I didn’t disconnect the battery, and it was fine. No errors at all.”
  
  

You can check similar installs on this post: BayOptiks G20 CSL DRL Install Guide

Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Once installed, the modules are maintenance-free.

If you wash your car often or drive in harsh weather, check the headlight seals occasionally to make sure they’re tight.

If one DRL starts to flicker months later, unplug and re-seat the connector. Vibration or heat cycling can loosen it slightly over time.

If both sides go out, check your DRL fuse or body control module (rare, but worth noting).

BayOptiks covers their kits with a one-year warranty. Keep your purchase record just in case.

Comparison: CSL Yellow DRLs vs Stock White

If you’re after that M5 CS look, this is the closest you can get without replacing the entire housing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to code my car after installing CSL yellow DRLs?
No. They’re plug-and-play. Your car recognizes them just like the stock boards.

Will this work on the 2021+ M5 (LCI)?
No. Those cars have laser headlights, which use a different internal board layout.

How long does the install take?
About 2 hours if you’re careful. Maybe 3 if it’s your first time removing a bumper.

Can I do it without removing the bumper?
Not really. The DRL boards sit underneath the headlights, and you can’t reach them otherwise.

Will this void my warranty?
It shouldn’t. You’re not cutting wires or changing control units. But BMW dealers may vary, keep your stock boards if you ever need to revert.

Do these overheat?
Not if you used the supplied thermal paste. It’s designed to pull heat away from the LED surface.

Can I install these on a G30 5 Series 530i or M550i?
Yes, as long as your car has the same LED headlights as the M5.

Do they cause error codes?
No, they’re CAN-bus safe. If you see one, it’s almost always a loose connector.

Are yellow DRLs legal?
In most areas, yes. They’re still white-visible light and within SAE range. But check local laws.

What’s the difference between CSL and CS yellow?
They’re the same color tone, BMW calls them “motorsport yellow.”

Owner Feedback

Here’s what a few F90 M5 and G30 owners said after installing their yellow DRLs:

• “Totally changed the front look of my M5. Subtle but noticeable.”

• “Did the install with basic tools, took about two hours. Hardest part was aligning the bumper back.”

• “The yellow reflection looks great with carbon splitters.”
  
  

The mod is small but makes a big difference. Paired with carbon grilles or a lip, it gives that true CSL headlight vibe.

If you’re curious about pairing this with other lighting mods, check the BayOptiks Headlight Collection, they also have options for the X3M, X4M, and other M models.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve wanted your F90 M5 headlights or G30 5 Series headlights to match the look of the M5 CS or M4 CSL, this is how.

You don’t need coding. You don’t need to buy $5,000 headlights. Just swap two LED boards and enjoy that signature yellow glow.

The hardest part is removing the bumper, but once you do, the rest is simple.

Take your time, label your screws, and apply the thermal paste right. That’s all there is to it.

When you’re done, turn on your car at dusk and see that golden glow staring back. That’s the CSL look, track-ready, clean, and unique.