A90 Supra Headlights: The Complete Guide to OEM Tech, Fixes, and Mods

The A90 Toyota Supra is a car that already looks like it’s staring down the road with intent. Its headlights are a big reason why. The sleek, angled housings and signature DRL bars give the Supra its aggressive “eyes.”

But those lights are more than just style. They pack advanced tech that most owners don’t fully know about, and they’re also one of the easiest ways to give your Supra a custom look without going overboard.

This guide breaks down how your factory headlights work, what can go wrong with them, and how to upgrade them, especially with one of the most popular mods today: the CSL Yellow DRL modules from BayOptiks.

The Factory Setup: What Makes A90 Supra Headlights Special

When Toyota and BMW teamed up on the GR Supra, they didn’t cut corners on lighting. Every A90 and A91 model comes with full LED headlights, no halogen or HID units here. These assemblies aren’t just bright, they’re smart.

Why the Factory LEDs Are So Good

LEDs give you clean, white light that’s close to natural daylight. That means better contrast and less strain on your eyes at night. They also use less power, run cooler, and last far longer than older halogen bulbs, often 25,000 to 30,000 hours before showing signs of dimming.

Each headlight is a full composite assembly, meaning all electronics, projectors, and control modules are built in. You can’t just “swap a bulb” like older cars, the entire unit is engineered as one piece.

Auto-Leveling: The Headlights That Adjust Themselves

You might’ve noticed your headlights “dip and rise” when you start your car. That’s not a glitch, it’s the auto-leveling system doing a self-check.

Sensors on the suspension measure the car’s pitch while driving. When you brake or accelerate, the lights automatically adjust so they always point at the right spot on the road. It’s subtle but crucial for safety and visibility.

This also means any headlight mod has to respect that system. Low-quality parts can confuse it and throw off your beam aim, so choosing the right upgrade matters.

OEM Replacement Costs and Why People Look for Alternatives

Here’s the painful part. A single OEM A90 Supra headlight from Toyota can run over $1,700 at MSRP. Even discounted, you’ll often pay around $1,100 for one side.

• Driver side part number: 81185-WAA03
  
  

• Passenger side part number: 81145-WAA03
  
  

Used ones aren’t cheap either, clean units go for $700–$1,300 on eBay. That’s why a lot of owners look for smaller, smarter ways to refresh or customize their headlights instead of replacing the whole thing.

 

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Common A90 Supra Headlight Problems (and Fixes)

Even with all the engineering that went into them, these headlights aren’t bulletproof. Here are the issues owners see most often.

1. Dust or Haze Inside the Lens

Many Supra owners have found dust or fine debris behind the lens. It’s not uncommon, modern headlight assemblies have vents that “breathe,” which can let in tiny particles over time.

Heat from the LEDs can also cause micro-etching on the inside of the plastic, making it look cloudy. Unfortunately, you can’t just open the headlight and wipe it out without baking the assembly in an oven to soften the sealant.

If the haze is severe, your best bet is a replacement lens kit like the one from OEM+ Designs. It’s cheaper than a new assembly but best left to professionals.

2. Auto-Leveling Acting Up After Lowering

If your headlights suddenly point too low or too high after installing lowering springs, you’re not alone. The auto-leveling sensors can get re-attached incorrectly.

The fix is simple: have a shop or dealer check the sensor orientation and recalibrate the system. It’s usually not a wiring fault, just a mounting issue.

3. Cracked or Rock-Chipped Lenses

Replacing the entire assembly for a cracked lens is overkill. A few companies now sell lens replacement kits, but they’re not for beginners. You have to heat and reseal the unit carefully to avoid leaks.

This is why most owners prefer simpler, plug-and-play upgrades like the BayOptiks CSL Yellow DRL modules, high visual impact with zero risk.

 

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Why DRL Upgrades Are the Most Popular Supra Mod

If you’ve spent any time on SupraMKV forums, you’ll notice one thing: everyone talks about yellow DRLs.

That “CSL look” comes straight from endurance racing, where yellow lights help distinguish classes on track at night. BMW M models like the M4 CSL brought that style to the street, and it fits the A90 Supra perfectly.

The CSL Yellow DRL upgrade gives your Supra a motorsport vibe without needing any permanent changes. It’s subtle during the day and striking at night. And it’s legal in most regions because the color still meets brightness and visibility standards.

CSL Yellow vs. RGB DRLs: Which One Fits You Better?

There are two main DRL upgrade styles for the A90 Supra. Here’s how they compare:

The CSL Yellow version wins for most owners. It’s cleaner, safer, and designed to swap directly into your OEM housing. You won’t have to cut or tap any wires.

RGB kits like the ones from Lightwerkz can be fun, but they involve extra work and wiring a controller. Some even need app calibration. For daily drivers, simplicity wins.

Trusted Brands for Supra DRL Kits

When it comes to lighting, cheap parts can cause expensive problems. Low-quality boards often overheat or trigger DRL malfunction codes.

That’s why serious Supra owners stick to reputable names like BayOptiks and Lightwerkz. Both offer direct-fit kits that are tested on actual cars and include proper heat management.

BayOptiks, in particular, is known for their true plug-and-play CSL Yellow DRL module. Each board matches factory spec connectors and uses thermal adhesive pads to manage heat, no dashboard errors, no splicing, no fuss.

DIY Installation Guide: BayOptiks CSL Yellow DRL Modules

This is where the fun begins. You can install the CSL Yellow DRL modules yourself in about an hour. No bumper removal. No fancy tools.

Here’s how to do it right.

Tools You’ll Need

• Torx screwdriver (T20 usually fits)

• Trim removal tools

• Needle-nose pliers

• Microfiber towel

• Magnetic tray (optional but helpful)
  
  

The BayOptiks kit includes the LED boards and thermal adhesive, no extra parts needed.

Step 1: Access the Headlight Modules

Open your hood and locate the two small heatsinks on the back of each headlight housing. You might need to remove a small plastic cover for room.

Step 2: Remove the OEM DRL Modules

Use your T20 screwdriver to remove the screws on each heatsink. Pull the module gently out, the LED board is attached to it.

Step 3: Disconnect and Separate the Factory LED Board

Unplug the small connector. Then remove the two smaller screws that hold the LED board to the heatsink. Clean off the old thermal paste.

Step 4: Install the New CSL Yellow Boards

If your new boards have pre-applied thermal pads, align them with the screw holes and tighten them down. If not, apply the included thermal adhesive first.

Step 5: Reconnect Everything

Plug the connector back in, slide the module into its slot, and secure it with the main screws. Make sure it’s snug, but don’t overtighten.

Step 6: Test the Lights

Before doing the other side, turn on the ignition. The DRLs should glow bright yellow. If one side doesn’t light up, double-check the connector.

Step 7: Repeat for the Other Headlight

Once confirmed, repeat the process on the other side.

Tips for a Clean Install

• Don’t skip thermal pads. They pull heat away from the LEDs, keeping brightness consistent.

• Handle boards by the edges. Touching the chips directly can damage them.

• Work slow. Tight spaces mean it’s easy to drop screws or nick wiring.

• No coding needed. BayOptiks modules are 100% plug-and-play, no software tweaks required.
  
  

Owners on SupraMKV report the entire job takes 45–60 minutes even for first-timers.

Should You Go CSL Yellow?

If you want the most noticeable visual change for the least effort, yes.

Here’s how it stacks up against other headlight upgrades:

The CSL Yellow hits the sweet spot: it looks amazing, installs easily, and doesn’t touch your factory wiring.

Maintenance and Troubleshooting Tips

• Keep the lens clean. Bugs and grime can dull the color. Use mild soap and microfiber only.

• Avoid pressure washers directly on the seams. They can push water into the vents.

• If one DRL doesn’t light, reseat the connector. BayOptiks uses locking tabs that can click halfway.

• Check for condensation. Small amounts can happen after heavy rain, but should clear once the lights warm up.
  
  

A90 Supra Headlight FAQ

Q: Do these headlights turn with the steering wheel?
No. They only auto-level up and down; they don’t swivel side-to-side like adaptive systems.

Q: Will yellow DRLs trigger warning codes?
Not with high-quality kits like BayOptiks. They’re designed to match the factory current draw and signal response.

Q: Are they street-legal?
In most regions, yes. The yellow tone falls within approved daylight running color ranges. Always check local laws if unsure.

Q: Can I go back to stock later?
Absolutely. The mod is reversible, just reinstall the original boards.

Q: What if I already have an aftermarket front lip or intake?
You’re fine. This install doesn’t require bumper removal or front-end disassembly.

Final Thoughts: A Simple Mod with Big Impact

Your A90 Supra’s headlights are more than functional, they define the car’s face. And with one simple mod, you can make that face even more distinctive.

The BayOptiks CSL Yellow DRL module upgrade gives your Supra a bold, motorsport-inspired look that fits the car’s DNA. It’s affordable, reversible, and easy enough to install in an afternoon.

If you want to explore other Supra lighting options, check out the full GR Supra collection for more OEM-fit upgrades.

For more background on LED tech, CarlightVision has a great explainer on how modern systems work. And if you want to see how other owners pulled off their installs, browse the threads at SupraMKV.com.

Sometimes, the best mods aren’t the biggest ones, they’re the ones that make your car feel a little more yours.