How to Install X3M Yellow DRL (F97)

F97/X3M F98/X4M G01/X3 CSL Yellow Headlight DRL Module

Installing X3M yellow DRL modules is a simple mod that changes how your BMW looks on the road. The bright white rings become CSL-style yellow, giving a sharper and sportier front end. It’s a clean plug-and-play job. You can do it at home with basic tools and some patience.

This guide covers the F97 X3M, F98 X4M, and G01 X3 with adaptive LED headlights. The steps are nearly identical across these platforms.

If you already picked up the CSL Yellow DRL Headlight Module Kit from BayOptiks, you’re ready to start.

Why People Swap to Yellow DRLs

BMW’s CSL-style yellow daytime running lights started as a nod to the brand’s GT race cars. They give a purposeful, motorsport look. Many owners of the X3M, X4M, and G01 X3 use this upgrade to get that same visual edge without changing the whole headlight.

Functionally, yellow DRLs can be easier on the eyes in fog or rain. They also make the car stand out in daylight. The X3 yellow DRL upgrade keeps all OEM functions, just changes the color.

And it’s fully reversible. Keep your original DRL boards in a safe spot. You can always go back to stock later.

Tools and Parts You’ll Need

You don’t need a full garage setup for this. Just a few standard tools.

Tools:

  • Torx bits (T20, T25)

  • Ratchet with sockets (8mm, 10mm)

  • Plastic trim removal tools

  • Small flat screwdriver

  • Phillips screwdriver

  • Heat gun or hair dryer

  • Gloves and safety glasses

  • Microfiber towels

  • Magnetic tray for screws

Parts:

  • Yellow DRL module kit for F97/F98/G01 (from BayOptiks or similar)

  • Thermal conductive adhesive (usually included)

  • Dielectric grease (optional for connector protection)

Optional but handy:

  • Masking tape for labeling connectors

  • Friend or helper to hold the bumper

  • BimmerCode or similar app (for optional DRL coding)

You can find other lighting upgrades in the BayOptiks X3/X4 CSL Yellow DRL Collection if you plan to match this mod with smoked lenses or laserlight swaps.

Safety first

Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting. It prevents short circuits.

Work on a flat, stable surface. Use wheel chocks. Don’t rely on the parking brake alone.

Wear gloves and eye protection. The heat gun gets hot, and headlight edges can be sharp.

Don’t overheat the headlight lens when softening glue. Move the heat source slowly.

And check your local laws. In some regions, yellow DRLs are legal. In others, only white lights are allowed up front. Know before you drive.

Compatibility Check

These instructions apply to:

  • BMW F97 X3M (2018–2021+)

  • BMW F98 X4M (2019–2022+)

  • BMW G01 X3 (2018–2022, adaptive LED headlights)

Both pre-LCI and LCI versions use similar DRL layouts. Always confirm the part number for your headlight before ordering. The BayOptiks product listing clearly shows which models fit.

Preparation Before You Start

  1. Test your current DRLs and headlights to make sure they work

  2. Turn off the ignition and remove the key

  3. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery

  4. Lay out all tools and parts near the car

  5. Take photos of your headlight connections, they help during reassembly

If your garage is tight, give yourself enough room to move around the front of the car. You’ll need space when pulling the bumper.

Step 1: Remove the Front Bumper

You have to take off the bumper to reach the headlight’s rear mounts and DRL modules.

bumper removal process

  1. Open the hood. Remove the top plastic cover clips and screws along the upper edge of the bumper

  2. Turn the wheels outward to expose the fender screws

  3. Remove the Torx screws inside the wheel arch that hold the bumper to the liner

  4. Pop out the plastic clips at the bottom of the bumper

  5. Underneath, remove any screws connecting the bumper to the undertray

  6. Gently pull the bumper forward from each corner. Use a plastic trim tool if clips resist

  7. Disconnect fog lights and parking sensors if equipped

Place the bumper on a blanket or padded surface.

Tip: Label each connector with masking tape. It saves confusion during reassembly.

Step 2: Remove the Headlight

You can change the DRL boards with headlights still mounted, but it’s cramped. Removing the headlight gives more control.

  1. Unplug the main headlight connectors

  2. Remove the 3–4 Torx bolts securing the headlight to the chassis

  3. Pull the headlight straight forward

  4. Set it down on a towel or soft surface

Inspect for cracks or dirt. Clean off debris around the DRL area before proceeding.

Step 3: Access the DRL Board

On the BMW adaptive LED headlight, each daytime ring is powered by a small LED board. It’s mounted behind the lens and held with screws or adhesive.

  1. Locate the DRL module by following the wire from the DRL connector

  2. Remove the cover or trim that hides the board

  3. Warm the adhesive using a heat gun for 10–20 seconds. Keep the gun moving to avoid melting the plastic

  4. Once the glue softens, use a trim tool to loosen the board gently

Take your time. Rushing this part can damage the housing.

Step 4: Remove the Stock DRL Board

  1. Unplug the connector from the board

  2. Unscrew the mounting screws. Keep them safe in a tray

  3. If there’s leftover glue, warm and lift carefully

  4. Remove the old DRL module board

Clean the mounting surface. Any old residue can keep the new module from sitting flat.

Owner tip from forums: use rubbing alcohol on a microfiber to remove stubborn adhesive.

Step 5: Install the New Yellow DRL Module

Now grab the CSL yellow DRL board from your BayOptiks kit.

  1. Apply the provided thermal conductive adhesive evenly to the back of the board. This helps it dissipate heat

  2. Align the board exactly as the old one. The connectors should face the same direction

  3. Lightly press it in place

  4. Reinstall the screws

  5. Plug in the connector until it clicks

  6. Let adhesive cure per instructions

No extra wiring is needed. The board is plug-and-play, it connects directly to the stock harness.

If you’re using a Horizon Motorsport board, the steps are the same. Both brands use the same LED footprint and harness connection.

Step 6: Test Before Sealing Everything

Reconnect the negative battery terminal and test the DRLs.

  1. Turn on ignition

  2. Switch headlights to “auto” or “daytime running light” mode

  3. Check that both rings light up bright yellow

  4. Look for flickering or dim spots

If both work and no warning appears, you’re good. If one doesn’t light, recheck connector seating and orientation.

Sometimes the board needs a small adjustment for perfect contact.

Step 7: Reinstall Headlight and Bumper

Once you confirm both DRLs work:

  1. Bolt the headlight back into the car

  2. Plug in all connectors

  3. Refit the bumper in reverse order

  4. Reconnect fog lights and sensors

  5. Clip the bumper sides back into place

  6. Reinstall screws in wheel wells and undertray

  7. Replace the top trim panel

Check that bumper gaps are even. Adjust if necessary before tightening everything down.

Coding and Configuration (Optional)

Most X3M yellow DRL and X4M yellow DRL kits need no coding. They work like OEM modules.

But if you see a “DRL malfunction” warning, try these:

  • Clean connectors

  • Check that both boards match the same model type

  • Clear codes with BimmerCode or dealer software

Some owners also use BimmerCode to disable bulb monitoring, preventing false warnings.

These modules are designed to behave like factory parts, no resistors or special coding required.

Testing and Troubleshooting

Problem: only one DRL works
 → Swap connectors left to right to confirm it’s not a wiring issue. If the issue follows the board, it may be faulty. Contact the seller for replacement.

Problem: flickering or dim DRL
 → Check adhesive contact. Loose thermal pads can cause uneven brightness.

Problem: condensation inside headlight
 → That’s from poor sealing. Remove the headlight, dry it with gentle heat, and reseal with silicone gasket maker. Avoid pressure washing the headlights directly.

Problem: warning on the dash
 → Usually harmless. Clear it. If it returns, re-check connector fit.

Always test again before closing everything up.

Maintenance After Install

  • Keep the headlight lens clean. Use mild soap, not harsh chemicals

  • Avoid directing high-pressure water at the seams

  • Inspect the DRLs every few months for color consistency

  • If one ring fades, contact the seller, most LED modules carry a warranty

  • Store the original white DRL boards in a labeled bag

If you ever plan to sell the car, returning to stock can add value.

Real Owner Tips

Here’s what real owners say from their installs on the BMW forums and groups. These are based on threads from BimmerPost, BimmerFest, and the X3/X4M subreddit:

  • “Use low heat and patience. Too much heat gun and you’ll melt the clear ring.”, shared by @x3m_diy_guy on BimmerPost, who documented his full F97 install

  • “The bumper comes off easier with two people. Don’t yank it solo.”, common advice across multiple Reddit and BimmerFest threads

  • “Dielectric grease on the connectors keeps moisture out.”, from a Reddit comment in the CSL DRL install discussion

  • “Take pictures of each clip. Saves 20 minutes later.”, mentioned in a BimmerFest DIY walkthrough for G01 owners

  • “Don’t overtighten the screws on the new DRL board, they’re small and strip fast.”, @x4mtrackpack shared this after swapping to BayOptiks yellow DRLs on his F98

Most owners report 2–3 hours for a full install. First-timers might take 4.

If you want to read through full builds and community advice, the BimmerPost F97/X3M Lighting Mods section is a solid reference. It’s filled with install photos, before-and-after comparisons, and coding discussions.

Legal Notes

Not every region allows yellow DRLs. In Europe, yellow front lights are often legal. In most U.S. states, DRLs must be white or amber.

If you want to stay compliant but still like the look, some owners wire yellow DRLs to a switch, using them as fog lights or show lights.

Always check your local vehicle code before using them on public roads.

Benefits After Install

The difference is instant. The CSL-style LED rings give your X3M or X4M a motorsport edge. They look more aggressive even when the car’s off.

Visibility stays solid. In bad weather, yellow can be more visible than white.

And because these boards are LED and plug-and-play, they don’t draw more power or trigger errors once seated properly.

The upgrade keeps full factory function, automatic high beam, adaptive cornering, everything.

Comparison Between Kits

Here’s what sets the major kits apart:

BayOptiks CSL Yellow DRL Kit, Direct fit for F97 X3M, F98 X4M, and G01 X3. Includes thermal adhesive and clear step-by-step photos. Plug-and-play with no coding. Fully reversible.

Horizon Motorsport CSL Yellow DRL Set, Similar fit, also plug-and-play. Emphasizes no error codes and OEM-level brightness.

Monaco Motorsports DRL Guides, They post general LED module installation guides. The steps are valuable even for BMW owners using different kits.

You can compare designs, but all three rely on the same factory connector style and LED board size.

If you’re looking to continue matching CSL-style parts, check the BayOptiks CSL Yellow DRL collection for compatible taillight and halo upgrades.

FAQs, answered in plain language

Do I need coding after installing the x3m yellow drl?
Usually no. These are true plug-and-play modules. A small number of cars may show a temporary warning that clears itself. If it doesn’t, you can code the FRM module to ignore voltage checks.

Can I install them without removing the bumper?
Technically yes, but it’s not practical. There isn’t enough space to access the DRL screws and clips. Removing the bumper makes the job easier and safer for the headlight housing.

Are yellow DRLs street-legal?
Depends on your region. Check your local road laws. Some allow amber or yellow DRLs, others require white only.

How long does installation take?
About 2–3 hours for first-timers. Professionals do it in under 2.

Can I go back to stock later?
Yes. Keep the original DRL boards and screws. Swapping back takes about an hour.

What if a clip breaks?
You can buy replacement clips and screws from BMW or aftermarket stores. They’re cheap and easy to replace.

Will these affect my adaptive headlights or laserlights?
No. The DRL module is independent. It won’t interfere with adaptive or cornering functions.

What’s the lifespan of yellow DRL modules?
Most LED boards last as long as factory ones, 20,000 hours or more if installed correctly.

Final Thoughts

The X3M yellow DRL upgrade is one of the cleanest mods you can do on an F97 or F98. It adds that CSL character without major teardown.

You don’t need a shop. You just need patience, basic tools, and the right parts.

Follow the steps. Use gentle heat. Keep screws organized. Double-check connections.

You’ll end up with bright yellow rings that set your BMW apart from every stock X3M or X4M on the street.

For parts, detailed specs, or other CSL-style lighting upgrades, check the BayOptiks product page and related collections.

And if you want extra visual guidance on removing headlights safely, Monaco Motorsports’ video guides are worth a look.

Once done, you’ll know why so many enthusiasts switch, it just looks right.

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